WarDogs
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Bodycam
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PUBG Black Budget
Fortnite
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Oxide Survival - Rust Mobile
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Neural Cheat
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Path of ExileDMA Cards: A Quick Guide
What DMA Cheats Are and Why They Are Still Considered the Safest
DMA (Direct Memory Access) is a method of reading from and writing to game memory at the hardware level, bypassing the gaming computer’s processor and operating system.
Key point:
All cheat software runs on a second PC → the anti-cheat (EAC, BE, Ricochet, Vanguard, etc.) cannot see the process, DLLs, drivers, or even suspicious threads on the main gaming PC.
As of March 2026, this remains the most reliable way to bypass user-mode and most kernel-mode anti-cheats, provided you use good firmware and avoid blatant cheating (especially in tournaments or when recording demos).
The Minimum and Practical Hardware Setup in 2026
A Closer Look at Each Component
1. Two Computers — the Foundation of Security
Gaming PC — clean, with no cheat software or traces. An additional PCI-E slot is required for the DMA card.
Second PC — this runs the cheat, LeechCore / VMM / FTD3XX, data processing, radar rendering, and so on. Requirements in 2026: at least 4 CPU cores, 8 GB of RAM, and any version of Windows.
You can use a laptop as the second PC, but keep in mind:
The screen is usually 1080p at 60 Hz → setting up a virtual display may take some work.
2. DMA Card: 35T vs 75T vs 100T
A quick comparison of speed, resources, and use cases:
35T — a basic budget chip. Around 150–190 MB/s and 4–6k reads/sec. Limited logic/BRAM → suitable for simple cheats and beginners. Downsides: outdated, firmware works less reliably, and performance is weaker in demanding games. The lowest price (around $50).
75T — the sweet spot and the most popular option. 5–7k reads/sec, with more resources. Better parallel processing and stability. Easy to flash and suitable for almost any game. The best balance of price and performance.
100T — the top-end option. Up to 220 MB/s and 9k+ reads/sec. The most resources.
Conclusion:
75T is the best choice for 95% of users.
35T is not worth it.
100T is only for those who need maximum speed.
The differences are mainly speed and stability; firmware matters more than the chip.
Conclusion: for your first setup, choose 75T. The 35T is already at its limits.
Buy only from trusted sellers (dma-market.com). Cards from AliExpress are often dead on arrival, have faulty firmware, or overheat.
3. Firmware — 80% of Your Security
Stock or free firmware = a ban in 99% of cases.
Good custom firmware:
Disguises the card as a legitimate device (graphics card, sound card, network adapter, etc.).
Bypasses anti-cheat scans of PCI devices.
Is often tied to the card’s DNA ID (so you cannot resell it separately).
In 2026:
Pooled or cheap firmware ($50–100) gets blocked roughly every 1–3 months.
Slotted, private, or self-made firmware lasts much longer (sometimes 6–12+ months).
4. Fuser — Wallhack and Menus on Your Main Screen
A DMA fuser is a hardware HDMI/DP combiner (overlay box, synthesizer, or overlayer) that combines video signals from two PCs into a single output to your monitor.
Main PC (the game) + second PC (the DMA card and cheat).
It lets you display the cheat overlay (ESP/wallhack, menus, radar) directly on your gaming monitor, without a second screen.
It only works together with a DMA card (it is useless without one).
In short, it combines the images so you can conveniently use DMA cheats with ESP on a single monitor.
5. Aim Without a Ban — KMBox Net or MAKCU
KMBox B Pro is obsolete.
KMBox Net works, but both PCs must be on the same network (LAN).
MAKCU is easier to connect and causes fewer problems.
MAKCU (also known as MAKCM or MAKXD) is a compact electronic device based on two powerful ESP32-S3 microcontrollers. It is an advanced tool for emulating mouse movements and clicks.
It is mainly used to bypass anti-cheats that detect standard software-based mouse emulation.
MAKCU connects between the computer and the physical mouse. It can intercept, process, and replace cursor movements, emulating them at the hardware level.
The Most Common Beginner Mistakes in 2026
Buying a Card with Preinstalled or Public Firmware (the Most Common and Costly Mistake)
Firmware (firmware/CFW) is the only thing anti-cheats (Vanguard, FACEIT, EAC, BattleEye) actually detect.
Beginners buy a “ready-to-use” card for $100–300 with automatically generated or public firmware → a ban within 1–7 days.
The right approach: an inexpensive card (35T/75T/100T) + custom/emulated firmware from a trusted developer (costing $300–1,000+). Without it, detection is guaranteed.
Obvious Cheating and Player Reports
A 100% headshot rate or 50+ K/D on a new account → AI detection and manual bans.
Bragging in chat or on a stream → immediate reports.
Removing the Card While the PC Is On
The result in 80% of cases is a burned-out card and motherboard.
Choosing Two Old PCs
No USB 3.0, no HDMI/DP input/output support, and extremely weak hardware.
Not Checking the Reported Device or Fully Power-Cycling the PC After Flashing Firmware
After flashing, check how the device is identified and restart the PC after disconnecting it completely from mains power (unplugging it).
This should be self-explanatory =)